Plan | A 'Grand Tour'

In the spirit of rich young men (and occasionally women) of centuries gone by, why not spend a winter’s afternoon planning a route for a Grand Tour of Europe? 

Whether it’s simply an idle but enjoyable dream or the first step to making a European trip a reality, planning a big adventure is always time well spent. These days, it’s surprisingly easy to flit from one European city to the next and see a huge amount in just a week or two. Back in the days of Grand Tours it would have been the trip of a lifetime; something that would finish your education and perhaps inform a career. Or a life’s work if you were Canaletto. 

In our February issue, we found out just how easy it is to travel Europe by rail, and, in the spirit of the Grand Tour, we’ve taken it as inspiration for a more modern way to travel, with a contemporary Grand Tour Itinerary. But first, what was the Grand Tour, exactly? 

A rite of passage for many aristocratic young things from the 16th to the 19th centuries, a ‘Grand Tour’ was a way of exploring the art and culture of Europe. The idea was to come home well rounded, better educated and with an intriguing sense of culture about you, having picked up a few charming European habits, which you would crowbar into conversation wherever possible… ‘Ah yes, I started drinking espresso while I was in Venice, actually’... 

Usually, leaving from Dover, often with a tutor (and servants to carry your luggage if you were fortunate), you would first travel to France, taking in Calais and Paris, before moving on through Switzerland. Having crossed the Alps, much of your ‘tour’ would have been spent in Italian cities such as Turin, Florence, Rome, Pompeii and Venice. Usually one would return home through German cities, then Austria (of course stopping at Vienna) and through Flanders and Holland before crossing the sea back to England. 

With the advent of interrailing, the internet and underwear that can be hand washed in a basin and dries within hours, you can spread your wings a little further, of course. Here’s our suggested itinerary for a 2024 Grand Tour via Inter Rail. 

A Modern Grand Tour

There are endless itineraries you could use, but if time and money were no object, this would be our contemporary Grand Tour, taking in some traditional stops and many new ones that we don’t think any European Tour should be complete without. 

1. London

2. Paris

3. Barcelona

4. Nice

5. Monaco

6. Rome

7. Florence

8. Venice

9. Ljubljana

10. Salzburg

11. Budapest

12. Prague

13. Berlin

14. Hamburg

15. Malmo

16. Aarhus

17. Amsterdam

18. London

You could do just three countries at a time for a slower pace, or you can plan your very own itinerary on the Inter Rail website. Now all you have to do is find a tutor and some staff to follow you about carrying your luggage. Bon voyage!

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Travel | When in Rome

Photography by Flavia Brunetti

It’s one of the most fascinating historical cities in the world, but there are a few things you might need to know in order to do as Romans do on a visit.

1. Cross the road with a nun. Or an old person. But preferably an elderly nun. Drivers in Rome show little care for pedestrians but they make exceptions for the elderly and women of the cloth, so if you’re crossing the road with one of them, you’re a little safer.

2. Do not ask for a cappuccino or a latte after midday. You will not only be laughed at but they’ll probably refuse to serve you, too. Milky coffees are for breakfast. Espressos or machiatos are for later in the day.

3. Ice creams, however, are for any time, any day. And you should have at least one gelato a day. But aim for three. Go for a gelateria with the steel tubs, never white plastic ones. Steel tubs probably means they made it themselves.

4. Beware Romans bearing gifts. A common scam is to ‘give’ you something on the street… and then charge you a fortune for it. Simply say ‘non, grazie’. 

5. Only make a wish at the Trevi Fountain. There are many fountains around the city where you will be encouraged to hurl your Euros into the water, but the Trevi Fountain is the ‘proper’ one and the only one Romans bother with where wishes are concerned. 

6. Go for the rectangular pizza, not the stuff cut up like a pie. It’s called Pizza al Taglio and you can buy it on most streets in Rome. Trastevere is the best district to buy food in. 

7. Don’t buy water - fill your reusable bottle from one of the 2,500 free drinking fountains around the city. They knew what they were doing when they built those aqueducts - it’s fresh, clean and cold. 

8. If you’re dining on a budget, have ‘aperitivo’ rather than dinner. For around 6-8 euros you can have a drink and a good, cheap plate of something (often a buffet) and leave full but not broke. Sometimes, aperitivo plates are actually free!

9. The best coffee is at Saint Eustachio cafe. It’s a fraction of the price if you have it standing at the bar rather than taking up a table.

10. Don’t look like a tourist by standing in a queue for hours. Buy your Vatican tickets online to skip the queue. And if you’re visiting the Colosseum, first visit the less popular Palatino and buy your Colosseum tickets there so you can just saunter through the door at the Colosseum later. 

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Old railway tracks

Offering unusual routes and easy navigation, old railway tracks are ideal for hiking, biking or just a wander in nature. 

Some former routes have been restored for use as heritage lines, offering passengers the chance to enjoy the full sensory experience of steam: the smoky scent in the air, the magical chuff-chuff of acceleration and the occasional tuneful whistle.

They include:

The Bluebell Railway

Climb aboard splendid steam trains with romantic names such as the Sussex Belle and Golden Arrow running between East Grinstead and Sheffield Park in East Sussex; bluebell-railway.com.

North York Moors Railway

Admire the North York Moors National Park from the steam trains on this not-for-profit, volunteer-led railway, which is fast approaching its 200th birthday – don’t miss Goathland, famous for playing fictitious stations including Harry Potter’s Hogsmeade, as well as a turn in 1990s TV show Heartbeat; nymr.co.uk.

Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways

Indulge in afternoon tea and first-class travel as you steam between Porthmadog and Caernarfon along the world’s oldest narrow gauge railway – the carriages’ windows framing magnificent mountainous views as it passes through Snowdonia; festrail.co.uk.

Turn to page 62 of September's The Simple Things for Ruth Chandler on her love of old railway tracks, or read on for some of her favourite routes.

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The tiny house movement

Originating in the US, the Tiny House Movement is about the freedom that comes from living with less. Once you understand what you really need and get rid of the rest, life simplifies and opens up. Resisting the urge to buy a bigger house, with all its attendant requirements – maintenance, heating, cleaning, furniture, bigger mortgage – and living in a modest home instead, benefits your budget, your soul and the environment.

Architects and designers have responded to this new way of living by creating a variety of tiny houses that measure no more than 46 sq m. Coming in all shapes and sizes, some with wheels, the focus is on efficient and eco-friendly design. The downside is that you have to be supremely tidy to live in one and get on extremely well with the other occupants. Which is why
many Tiny Houses are used as weekend getaways (see issue 70, on tinyhomesholidays.com) or an extra room in the garden.

Turn to page 104 of August's The Simple Things for a look inside a beautiful tiny house in Johannesburg.

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House in a tree

Whether treehouse, cabin, hut or lodge, there's something we love about a single-room dwelling.

Treetops treehouse, Chumleigh, Devon

If it weren’t for the elevated view from the windows and natural wood décor, you wouldn’t even think you were in a treehouse. But this expansive retreat, sleeping four, is designed around a massive 250-year-old oak, with a deck overlooking North Devon Biosphere Reserve. foxandhoundshotel.co.uk

Turn to page 76 of August's The Simple Things for more of these clever buildings that bring us closer to nature, maybe even closer to ourselves.

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How to buy a camper van

The camper van is so much more than a vehicle to sleep in, says motorhome lover Martin Dorey who shares his tips on buying one. 

Have you got your heart set on a camper? Congratulations. I look forward to waving to you on the road somewhere. But first ask yourself a few questions about why you want one and what you want to do with it.

Do you want to own a classic? Is it to travel the world (or even a bit of it)? Is it to camp in a little more comfort? Will it carry what you want to take with you? How many do you need to be able to sleep? Two is easy, more then four is trickier – and remember, kids get bigger.

Firstly, set a budget as it will decide everything from age to the interior, the condition and mileage and comes back to the ‘why’ question. It’s worthwhile totting up the running costs, too. You could consider alternatives to a VW and bear in mind that imported vans from dry places like Australia and South Africa are often rust-free and right-hand drive, too.

Rent before you buy to make sure a camper is really for you, before you spend thousands. Then go to as many big dealers, motorhome retailers, VW festivals and conventions as possible. Nose about in as many vehicles as you can, to check layouts, seating arrangements and budget, and try to identify the vehicle that’s just right for you. There’ll be one, all you have to do is find it.

Serial camper van owner Martin Dorey is author of The Camper Van Bible and his latest book, Take the Slow Road: Scotland (both Bloomsbury). You can get signed copies at martindorey.com.

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Eat better service stations

Anyone who despairs of shoddy motorway service station food and the appalling provisions available in petrol stations throughout the land should know there are alternatives. And they are handily listed in the glove-box sized The Extra Mile: Delicious Alternatives to Motorway Services, which proffers motorway by motorway suggestions of off-piste cafés, tearooms, pubs, farm shops and delis around the country.

Try these for starters:
M4: The Bell at Ramsbury, Wiltshire, SN8 2PE
A Georgian era coaching inn off junction 14 of the M4, on the edge of the Marlborough Downs, The Bell offers seasonal food and drink drawn from the local Ramsbury’s estate’s own brewery, distillery and smokehouse.

M5: Court Farm Shop, Cheltenham, GL52 7RY
With a ridge of the Cotswoldian Cleeve Hills as a backdrop, Court Farm Shop started life as a roadside egg shop but has blossomed into a purveyor of local produce. Two thirds of its wares are sourced within a 30-mile radius, and the farm’s own livestock is the basis for acclaimed burgers, sausages and meatballs. A hop from junction 11.

M11: Shelford Deli, Cambs, CB22 5LZ
Off junction 11, the Shelford Cafe-Deli serves up delectable homemade sandwiches, salads, cakes, pizzas, ice-cream, coffee and much else beside – all with a contemporary twist – that have made it beloved of foodies far beyond those simply stopping by off the motorway. Its assets also include a sunlit garden with a wendy house to play in.

M6: Whale Tail Café, Lancaster, LA1 IXN
A Mecca for vegetarians and vegans, this caff, off junction 34, is famed for its meat-free breakfasts, and cakes that are ‘masterful examples of alternative baking’. Ingredients where possible are free trade and organic.

Foodie pitstops taken from The Extra Mile: Delicious Alternatives to Motorway Services by Alastair Sawday and Laura Collacott (Printslinger)

Turn to page 68 of August's The Simple Things for more detours worth making. 

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Be more there

Ask people why they travel and not many would say their goal is to skim the surface of a foreign culture and take photos to share online while answering office emails. Yet, too often that’s the reality.

Before you go away next, consider whether you could travel more slowly and mindfully and with a little more integrity. The following ideas from Sara Clemence, author of Away and Aware (Piatkus), apply to any destination and budget. They will help you become a more considerate and respectful visitor, attentive to the people you meet and the places you see, travelling in a way that leaves your heart bigger and your mind broader.

Taper off

Try to extricate yourself from the stresses of daily life a few days before your trip begins. Consume less news, change your notifications, eliminate brainless browsing time. All this will make the transition into a mindful- travel mindset easier.

Schedule naps

A siesta is one of the simplest and most powerful indulgences. Naps boost imagination and alertness, reduce stress and improve health. Build them into your daily travel schedule to help your mind process all the new experiences of a trip – and just because naps make you feel good, too.

Embrace JOMO

JOMO (Joy Of Missing Out) is way better than FOMO. It’s letting go of being in the know, enjoying real connection instead of virtual approval, and focusing on yourself instead of everyone else. To achieve a state of JOMO, you might need to let yourself be uncomfortable, but remember that you’re probably not missing anything of any actual importance. And think of the power of saying no to endless doses of affirmation. To help, consider buying a new, basic phone that only lets you perform the simplest tasks – phone calls and texts. The old made new again.

More on page 88 of August's The Simple Things, including trying a new food everyday, making a holiday resolution and taking up a hands-on hobby.

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Games for the car

No phones, no headphones and definitely no death by I-Spy: our five fun and portable pastimes can make road trips a lot more pleasurable

Pub cricket

Difficulty level: Easy

What you’ll need
A route in Britain where you’ll pass plenty of pubs.

How to play
In this British institution of a driving game, count legs on pubs to score ‘runs’. One player ‘goes in to bat’ or, in other words, looks out for pubs. At each pub passed, count the number of legs implied by the sign and score that many runs. So, ‘The Bull and Last’ would be 4 runs for the bull’s four legs, ‘The William Shakespeare’ would score 2, and ‘The Fox and Hound’ would score 8. For plurals, such as ‘The Cricketers’, assume there are two of them unless it specifies otherwise. So for this pub, you’d score 4 runs.
Pass a pub with the words ‘Arms’ or ‘Head’, you’re out!
Note down the score before play passes on to the next batsman.

Turn to page 74 of August's The Simple Things for four more car games. 
 

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How to travel like a twentysomething

Embracing travel as a mindful, life-enhancing activity means recapturing a bit of the adventurous spirit of youth. In January's The Simple Things, Erin Spens (founder and editor of BOAT magazine) shares her travel secrets 

How to travel like a twentysomething (sort of)

Erin’s ways to make grown-up backpacking a little easier

• Ditch the wheelie bag and dig out the backpack. I’m not saying you have to stay in a hostel (though you’ll socialise more and pay less), but there’s no denying: the lighter your bag, the longer your days feel.
• Pack light, then cut that in half. It’s hard to be in the moment when your bag is digging into your shoulder.
• Try not to plan, at least not every minute of every day. Leave some time to wander. You’ll see a different side to a place this way. l Book accommodation that you’re comfortable in. If it’s a challenge to show up to a new place without all the details planned, I’d let where you stay be your respite from days with less structure than you’re used to.
• Bring a towel. More than anything else, it’s changed the way I travel. I have a thin Turkish hammam-style towel that packs up super small and can be used for anything – wiping things down, as a blanket or a bunched-up pillow on a bus, to wrap things in when you pack, or to take to the beach.
• To cut down on packing, I simplify my skin and hair care by replacing practically everything with coconut oil. It can remove make-up, moisturise, serve as shaving gel, condition wet hair...
• Take just one book. I have only recently become more realistic about how much I actually read when I’m travelling.
• Set a goal for phone time. I actually feel less stressed when I am away if I allow myself to check and respond to emails every so often. Do whatever works best for you, but have a loose plan so you don’t end up down an Instagram hole in the middle of a beautiful foreign city.
• And finally: be totally and utterly present. Breathe deeply. Walk slowly. Take pictures. Listen more and talk less. Look up.

Turn to page 81 of January's The Simple Things for more of Erin's advice.
 

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Escape | A secret 16th century apartment in Hay-on-Wye

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Jen Chillingsworth heads to a book-lovers nook in Hay.

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 68 of the October issue for more of this urban adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Jen Chillingsworth is a visual storyteller. She is a regular contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk. More stories can be found on her blog little-birdie.com or on Instagram @jenlittlebirdie

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Escape | A hipster hideaway in London

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Lottie Storey heads to The Culpeper, London - much more than a pub with rooms

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 62 of the September issue for more of this urban adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Lottie Storey is The Simple Things’ digital editor and a contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk. Find her on Instagram @lottie_storey and her Bristol-based travel and lifestyle blog, oysterandpearl.co.uk. 

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Escape | A Welsh eco retreat with room to roam

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Nina Nixon heads to Wales for a weekend retreat 

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 76 of the August issue for more of this outdoors adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Nina Nixon is a contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk. She has a passion for photography, capturing moods and making memories. More of Nina’s work can be found on her blog ninanixon.co.uk and on Instagram @nina_nixon

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Escape | Outing to the sea

For a truly nostalgic day trip to the seaside, track down a steam train special. On page 60 of July’s The Simple Things, Travis Elborough takes a train to the sea.

‘As someone who grew up by the seaside but has lived in two landlocked cities over the past three decades, I need few excuses to head to the
coast on a whim or having spotted a decent weather report. Like Ishmael in Moby Dick, I am occasionally gripped by an almost uncontrollable urge to ‘get to sea’. And my preferred means of reaching these longed-for shores is invariably a train.

‘Although railway stations can be the stuff of humdrum commutes,disruptions
and disputes, I treasure the possibilities they offer as means of escape to coastal adventure. The destination boards at Manchester Piccadilly, Leeds, Chester, London’s St Pancras and Fenchurch Street proffering the options, respectively, of visits to Blackpool or Morecambe, Scarborough, Llandudno, Broadstairs and Margate, Southend and Leigh-on-Sea.

‘Here a railway ticket can serve as a passport to a place of sights (if not actually sun), sea and vinegary fish and chips, where parking is no concern of mine. Travelling light on these occasions only helps to add a certain devil-may-care air of fleetfootedness to the whole affair.’

Read more in July’s The Simple Things.

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Escape | How to be a fearless traveller

Life coach Lou Hamilton offers the following advice to take the stress out of solo travel

1 Have a sense of purpose. A reason you want to do it that’s bigger than your fear.
2 Be prepared. Double-check everything.
3 Walk yourself through the trip in your mind’s eye and imagine success.
4 Organise the first few trips with a reason to interact with people, such as a retreat or creative course or a family-run B&B or homestay.
5 Don’t spend your time staring at your phone – look up, make eye contact, introduce yourself, and smile.
6 Take safety precautions but don’t let fear stop you taking calculated risks.

Things to read

Roam Alone, Inspiring Tales by Reluctant Solo Travellers (Bradt)
40 tales of adventure by people who took the plunge and never looked back.

Solitude by Michael Harris (Random House)
Get inspired to set off.

Without Reservations: The Travel of an Independent Woman by Alice Steinbach (Bantam).
An US journalist travels Europe alone after her kids have flown the nest.

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Things to download

Zipskee
The app that connects you with like-minded locals around the world.

Triplt
This clever app replaces the travel companion who reminds you to pack your passport, book that transfer, and so on.

Google Translate
Will encourage you to interact with locals and decipher menus. 

Turn to page 87 of July's The Simple Things for more on how to travel alone - buy your copy now (it also makes for an excellent holiday read).

 

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Escape | A rustic hideaway in Cornwall

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Charmaine Beaumont-Hammond heads to Bude for a beachy retreat 

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 68 of the July issue for more of this seaside adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Charmaine Beaumont-Hammond is a contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk and is a writer, photographer and co-owner of wealdstore.com. She blogs at wealdblog.co.uk; follow her on Instagram @wealdblog. 

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Fancy winning a stay at Bude Hideaways? Enter our competition!

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Escape: A converted barn in Wales

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Jeska Hearne heads to the Welsh border for a family stay in an architectural gem 

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 68 of the June issue for more of this rural adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Jeska Hearne is a contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk and co-founder of online lifestyle store thefuturekept.com. More of her photographs and stories can be found on her blog lobsterandswan.com and Instagram @lobsterandswan.

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Escape: Shed heaven beside the sea

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: SarahLou Francis stays in a farmhouse nestled in Devon's coastal hills

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 60 of the March issue for more of this seaside adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Sarah-Lou Francis specialises in storytelling photography (sarahloufrancis.com). She’s on Instagram @lapinblu, and also contributes to This is Your Kingdom.

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Escape: A simple, ancient cottage in Kent

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Jeska Hearne stays in a 500-year-old, grade-II listed Tudor cottage

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things – turn to page 64 of the February issue for more of this Tudor adventure – and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Jeska Hearne is a contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk and co-founder of online lifestyle store thefuturekept.com. More of her photographs and stories can be found on her blog lobsterandswan.com and Instagram @lobsterandswan.

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Escape: Low-season romance

See, do, stay, love the UK. This month: Lou Archell stays in a Georgian B&B in quiet and wintry Penzance

Our regular travel series comes from online UK travel guide This is Your Kingdom, whose handpicked contributors explore favourite places, special finds and great goings on.

You can read about one we love each month in The Simple Things - turn to page 66 of the January issue for more of this Cornish adventure - and plenty of others at thisisyourkingdom.co.uk.

Lou Archell is a regular contributor to thisisyourkingdom.co.uk. Follow her blog at Littlegreenshedblog.co.uk and find her on Instagram as @littlegreenshed. 

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