Food | Pies Around Britain

To mark British Pie Week (2-8 March) we’re taking a tour of regional pies and paying homage to a few of our favourites and a few going on our Pie To Try lists

Bedfordshire Clanger

This two-course pie was originally made for 19th century farm workers to save them coming back from the field for their lunch. Clangers are rectangular, like a sausage roll, with a savoury filling in one end (often liver, bacon or pork) and sweet at the other (usually jam or fruit), baked in a suet crust. Their name is thought to derive from their slightly heavy consistency. Subtle, they are not. 

Shropshire’s Fidget Pie

Shropshire is the most famous of the ‘fidget’ pies, though they’re popular all over the Midlands. There are several theories behind the name ‘fidget pie’. Some suggest it’s because they were five-sided  or ‘fitched’, others claim it’s to do with the way the ingredients jump around during cooking. The least enticing theory is that they smell like a ‘fitchett’ or polecat. Delicious! Recipes vary but the main ingredients are gammon, apple, potato and onion.

Cornwall’s Stargazy Pie

Now served all over the south west, Stargazy pie is officially and originally made in Mousehole. One stormy December night, when the cut-off village was close to starvation, a brave fisherman called Tom Bawcock put his boat out to sea and returned with enough fish for the whole village. His catch was baked into one huge pie and the villagers feasted. The inhabitants of Mousehole cook a Stargazy pie (with the heads and tails of pilchards poking out of the pastry top to see the stars) every 23 December in his honour. 

Scotch Pie

These ‘hand-held’ hot water crust pies usually contain beef or lamb (once mutton) and are a common sight at football matches. The pastry lid sits a few centimetres below the edges of the pie allowing for a topping of gravy or baked beans (all your major food groups, there). They date back around 500 years and still fill Scottish bakeries today, sometimes known as a ‘shell pie’.

Welsh Oggie

Much like a Cornish pasty, Welsh Oggies were originally eaten by tin miners enabling them to take a hot lunch down the mines with them that was easy to eat. Oggies tended to be bigger than pasties (presumably Welsh miners were hungrier than their Cornish counterparts), and contained lamb and leeks rather than beef, carrots, potato and onion. 

Lancashire Butter Pie (Preston Catholic Pie) 

One of the cheapest and most cheering pie recipes around, this Northern pie contains simply potatoes, onions and (rather a lot of) butter. Served on Fridays when Catholics traditionally did not eat meat, it’s known in Preston as Catholic Pie or even Friday Pie. It’s also a favourite snack at Preston North End Football Club. 

Devonshire Squab Pie

Traditionally made with young pigeons (hence ‘squab’) but now containing mutton or lamb, this pie also includes apples, onions, prunes and (of course) clotted cream. Those on a health kick may replace it with a dash of double cream. Some still mistakenly refer to the dish as a ‘squabble’ pie, in the belief that the recipe emerged from a disagreement between a meat-pie-loving husband and an apple-pie-loving wife. You can see the confusion, given that there’s not a squab in sight now, but sadly, it’s a misnomer. 

Leicestershire’s Melton Mowbray Pork Pie

The humble pork pie dates back to medieval times but it is the Melton Mowbray version that stands as Pie King, head and shoulders above other, lesser, pork pies. In fact, it was so admired that in 2008 they were given EU geographic protection status, meaning they could only be sold as ‘Melton Mowbray’ pork pies if they adhered to certain criteria AND were made within a ten-mile radius of the town. A hot water crust encases the chopped pork and aspic filling and they are baked freestanding, not in a mould, which is what gives them their slightly bowed appearance. Possibly originally made for local fox-hunters, they are now a picnic basket staple. Brook no substitutes. 

Yorkshire’s Knaresborough Picnic Pie

A summery pie, ideal for slicing and eating outdoors. The basic recipe is simply layers of boiled ham and sliced eggs, baked in pastry, but various bakeries add their own ingredients to make it ‘theirs’. Delicious with a good chutney. 

Sussex Churdle 

A ‘dry’ savoury pie which dates back to the 17th century made of one sheet of pastry filled with liver, bacon and onion. Once baked you create a ‘chimney’ in the middle and pour in melted cheese. We’re unsure if this is pie genius or pie heresy. 

In our March issue, we take a trip to Melton Mowbray to visit the British Pie Awards and see the judging in action. The feature is by Julian Owen and the photography by Jonathan Cherry. The issue is in shops now.

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Recipe | Pineapple Tacos

Photography by Ali Allen

Inspired by Tacos al Pastor, this is a smokier and more simplified sauce as the traditional version has harder-to-access ingredients.

SERVES 2-4

250g diced pork or diced chicken or shiitake mushrooms
150g roast pineapple BBQ sauce (see February issue)
200g fresh pineapple, cut into 2-3cm cubes
1 tbsp olive oil

For the pink taco pickles:
1 large or 2 small red onion(s), thinly sliced
100ml apple cider vinegar
½ tsp coriander seeds
4 cloves

For the fresh pineapple salsa:
200g fresh pineapple, finely diced
1 tbsp olive oil
4 spring onions, thinly sliced
1 fresh chilli, finely chopped or ½ tsp chilli flakes
Large handful fresh coriander, finely chopped
2 limes, zested and juiced

To serve:
4 small or 2 large tortilla wraps

You’ll also need:
4 bamboo skewers, or alternative

1 Mix the diced pork, chicken or mushrooms with the pineapple BBQ sauce until thoroughly coated. Cover and marinate in the fridge overnight or at room temperature for 1 hr.

2 Make the pickles next by mixing all of the ingredients together with a pinch of salt. Cover and leave to marinate for at least 1 hr, or overnight.

3 Soak the bamboo skewers. Thread the marinated pork, chicken or mushrooms onto the skewers with the pineapple, alternating between the two. Set aside.

4 Mix all of the ingredients for the salsa with the zest and juice of the limes. Add a little sea salt, to taste.

5 Preheat agrill to high. Drizzle the olive oil over the prepared skewers and grill for 5-7 mins on each side, or until nicely charred – if using pork or chicken, test the centre to ensure the meat is cooked through.

6 Warm the tortillas and place the skewers in the centre. Dust with a pinch of salt and top with pineapple salsa and the pink taco pickles.

The recipe above is taken from our March ‘Home Economics’ pages, which this month focus on tropical fruits to cheer the Hungry Gap. It also includes recipes for Mango Mojito Sorbet, Mango Sorbet with Honey & Olive Oil, South Indian Green Banana Curry, Banana Skin Chutney, Tepache, Roast Pineapple Barbecue Sauce, Fresh Coconut Laksa and Crab Cakes. The recipes are by Rachel de Thample and the photography is by Ali Allen.

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Recipe | Chocolate & Rose Mini Cakes

The way to our hearts is always with cake and these tiny treats are full of love (and chocolate).

Makes 20

100g butter, cubed

200g caster sugar

150g self-raising flour

50g cocoa powder

2 eggs

1 tbsp rose water

2 tbsp milk

Butter, for greasing

For the butter icing:

150g butter, softened

300g icing sugar

1 tsp rose water

Gold edible spray, optional

1 Preheat the oven to 200C/Fan 180C/Gas 6. Meanwhile, grease a mini cupcake baking tray with butter and set aside.

2 Cream together the butter and sugar until smooth. In a separate bowl, mix together the flour and cocoa powder. In another bowl beat together the eggs and rose water. Alternate adding a spoon of flour and egg mix to the butter and sugar, beat until incorporated each time before adding the next spoonful.

3 If the mix is too thick, add a little milk to loosen it. Spoon the mix into the prepared mini cupcake tray and bake for 15 mins. Test with a skewer – if it comes out clean they are done, if not, bake for another few mins before testing again.

4 Allow to cool for 5 mins in the tray before removing to a cooling rack.

5 Make the butter icing by beating together the butter and half the icing sugar, add the rest slowly keeping a smooth, silky consistency, towards the end, add the rose water.

6 When the cakes are completely cool, add the icing to a piping bag with a star nozzle, pipe each cake and spray with gold spray, if using.

This recipe is one of the ideas from our feature ‘Tea and Tarot’ in our February issue, a menu for an afternoon tea with a twist. It also includes recipes for Citrus Fizz, Chamomile Chai Tea, White Bean & Cauliflower Soup, Rosemary & Cheese Scones, Buttermilk Scones with Lemon Curd, a trio of sandwiches and Sausage Rolls with Nutmeg and Caramelised Onions, The photography and recipes are by Catherine Frawley.

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Recipe | Cavolo Nero Gnocchi with Sage Butter

Green leaves at this time of year are few and far between outdoors so you’ll need to get your chlorophyll dose in the kitchen. The spotlight’s on darkest black-green cavolo nero and pale sage leaves in this tasty comfort food dish.

Serves 4

1kg maris piper potatoes (you’ll need 700-800g of fluffy potato once you’ve removed their skins)

150g cavolo nero, stalks removed

1 tbsp olive oil

2 eggs

200g pasta flour

Salt

25g butter

Small bunch of sage

1 lemon, zested

1 Preheat the oven to 200C/Fan 180/Gas 6. Pop your potatoes straight onto the oven rack and bake for about 1½ hrs, or until they’re fluffy inside. Cut them in half and leave to steam while you get on with the greens.

2 In a pan, braise the cavolo nero with a splash of water and the olive oil until tender. Drain well, squeeze out every drop of water, then whizz with the eggs in a food processor until smooth.

3 When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, scoop out the insides while still warm. Push through a sieve or use a potato ricer if you have one. Measure 700–800g of potato flesh.

4 In a large bowl, mix the sieved potato, cavolo nero paste and the flour. Bring together into a dough,

then turn out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Add a little more flour if it feels sticky.

5 Roll the dough into thin cigar shapes, dusting with flour to prevent sticking. Cut into bite-sized pieces.

6 Drop them into a pan of salted boiling water. They are ready when they bob to the surface. Retain

some of the pasta water before draining the cooked gnocchi.

7 Meanwhile, in a large pan, melt the butter. Add the sage leaves and let them sizzle. Stir in a couple of spoonfuls of the starchy pasta water until the sauce comes together.

8 Add the cooked gnocchi to the sauce and shake the pan to coat. Grate over some fresh lemon zest and black pepper, loosening with more pasta water if needed. Taste, season, and serve immediately.

This recipe is taken from our February issue’s ‘Kitchen Therapy’ pages, which this month focuses on earthy and simple foods to help you embrace dark days. The recipes are by Lottie Storey and the photography is by Kym Grimshaw. The February ‘Heal’ issue is in shops now.

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Tipple | Rosemary & Ginger Hinny

A no alcohol take on a classic mule cocktail, this version has the signature ginger tang, but swaps mint for rosemary

Serves 1-2

2 fresh rosemary sprigs (save 1 to garnish)
Ice cubes
240ml ginger ale tonic (see below)
240ml freshly squeezed lime juice
Simple syrup, to taste
Sparkling water, to taste

For the ginger ale tonic:

14g fresh ginger root, sliced thinly (no need to peel)
1 tbsp ashwagandha root powder
1 cinnamon stick
1 star anise pod
Honey or preferred sweetener, to taste

1 Muddle a few rosemary leaves in the bottom of a glass, then fill the glass with ice.

2 Make the ginger ale tonic by combining 475ml of water and the spices in a pan. Covered, bring it to a slow simmer over a low heat for 20-30 mins (for a stronger ginger ale, simmer for up to 45 mins).

3 Add the honey or your preferred sweetener while still warm, and taste, adding more if necessary. Let the ale cool before straining through a fine-mesh sieve or a cheesecloth into a clean jar.

4 Add 240ml of the tonic, the lime juice and a splash of simple syrup to the glass with ice and rosemary.

5 Stir gently and top with sparkling water and a rosemary sprig. Bartender’s note: If the rosemary is flowering, add the purple flowers to ice cube moulds to create pretty ice cubes, which can then be added to the tipple.

Taken from The Herbalist’s Guide For The Sober Curious by Leah Jorgensen Jean (Chartwell Books)

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Recipe | A Christmas Eve spiced ale

This is a wassailing style drink for the season. Wassail, from Middle English wæs hæl, means ‘good health’. This hearty festive drink would be a welcome sight at parties and a warming companion while you wrestle the wrapping

This is a dry drink that works well with Guinness or stout as well as ale. This recipe makes enough for a gathering but you can alter it to just make enough for you and a friend or loved one to enjoy while you wrap the presents on Christmas Eve. Because is it even Christmas Eve if you haven’t become slightly tipsy, lost the scissors and called the Sellotape a rude name?

Serves 8–12
Handful of sultanas
150ml marsala, sherry, brandy or rum
100ml ginger cordial or 125g caster sugar
Pinch of grated nutmeg, ginger and cinnamon
2 litres ale, porter, stout or other dark ale
Ice, optional
Punchbowl and cups or glasses

1 Put the sultanas in the punchbowl, add the measured marsala (or alternative), plus the cordial or sugar, and the spices. Leave to macerate.
2 When ready to serve, add ice (if preferred) and the ale. Stir and serve in the cups.

Recipes and images taken from Artisan Drinks by Lindy Wildsmith, photography by Kevin Summers (Jacqui Small, £25). This blog was first published in the December 2014 issue of The Simple Things.

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Recipe: Smoked toffee apple bourbon

What’s the only thing better than a sticky toffee apple? This tipsy toffee apple brew, especially when sipped beside the fire

There are a few stages to this, but once made the syrups will last a few weeks in the fridge, so there’s no need to rush through it. The first step is to make a simple syrup, which you will then use to make a caramelised simple syrup that will give the bourbon a beautiful toffee taste.
 

Simple syrup

‘Cups’ are used here not in any exact way, but merely to show that we want the volume of sugar and water to be the same, and so you may as well pour each into the same cup to measure out.

2 cups water
2 cups granulated sugar

1 Heat water and sugar gently in a saucepan until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil and simmer until the liquid turns clear.

2 When completely cool, pour into a jar and store in the fridge.
 

Caramelised simple syrup

This caramelised syrup recipe is adapted from Homemade Liqueurs and Infused Spirits by Andrew Schloss (Storey Publishing).

1 cup granulated sugar
2 cups simple syrup

1 Heat the sugar in a small saucepan on a medium-high heat until it starts to turn brown at the edges. Stir with a wooden spoon. The sugar will turn lumpy. Keep on stirring for a few mins until it turns deep orange and completely liquid.

2 Stand back and carefully pour in the simple syrup. The mixture will bubble furiously and the sugar will turn solid. Keep heating and stirring and the lump of caramelised sugar will slowly dissolve into the syrup.

3 When cool, pour through a strainer into a jar and store in the fridge. Eat the pieces of caramel left behind in the strainer.
 

Bourbon

This infused bourbon combines the tastes and scents of the moment. Caramelised simple syrup is combined with grated apple and the whole given a note of smokiness with the addition of a teaspoon or so of Lapsang Souchong tea.

3 apples
360ml caramelised simple syrup
480ml bourbon
2 cinnamon sticks
2 tsp lapsang souchong

1 Grate the apples into a large, sterilised, sealable jar and pour in the syrup.

2 Muddle together and then add all the other ingredients and mix well. Leave to infuse for five days.

3 After five days, strain through a muslin into another sterilised, sealable jar. Leave to drip through the muslin for a few hours rather than squeezing it, for a clearer result.

4 You can drink immediately, or seal and store somewhere cool and dark for up to a year. 

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Recipe | Savoury Cheesecakes (and matched wine)

Not all cheesecakes are sweet, these savoury versions are topped with your favourite roasted veg

Serves 6

Ingredients

200g mixed cherry tomatoes

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1 tbsp butter

50g seeded oat crackers

100g dates, roughly chopped

50g walnuts

100ml thick cream

1 tbsp spelt flour

400g soft goat’s cheese

1 tbsp nigella seeds

To make

1 Preheat the oven to 190C/Fan 170C/Gas 5.

2 Place the tomatoes in a baking tray and drizzle with the olive oil and half the balsamic. Roast for 15 mins.

3 Melt the butter in a pan and, once melted, pour into a food processor along with the crackers, dates and walnuts. Blitz until finely chopped.

4 Divide the blended mix between six serving glasses, filling each glass an inch or two full and firmly pressing the contents down. Set aside.

5 Gently heat the cream in a small pan until it comes to the boil, add the spelt flour and stir until it’s fully blended. Mix in the goat’s cheese and a few twists of salt and pepper.

6 Pour the creamy goat’s cheese mixtures into each of the serving glasses, on top of the cracker, date and walnut base, then transfer to the fridge to cool and set.

7 To serve, remove the glasses from the fridge, top with the tomatoes and sprinkle with nigella seeds.

Cook’s note: If you know that you’re going to be pressed for time, you can make the cracker base and creamy goat’s cheese body of these savoury cheesecakes up to two days ahead and keep them in the fridge. Then you can roast and add the toppings on the night.

Pair it with…

2021 Lay & Wheeler Rioja Viña Avanzando by Bodegas Lanzaga because its sour cherry and ripe plum flavours, combined with vanilla and cloves, makes it a great choice for a cheese course.

The above cheese and wine pairing is from our October ‘Gathering’ pages, which this month is a cheese and wine evening, also including recipes for Baked Halloumi Sticks, Beetroot & Blue Cheese Tasting Dish, Grilled Courgette Ribbons with Burrata & Toasted Pine Nuts, Herbed Goat’s Cheese Crostini and Roast Spiced Nectarines with Cinnamon Mascarpone Cream. Each cheese dish has a suggested wine to match with it. Cheers! The recipes are by Kay Prestney and the photography is by Rebecca Lewis.

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Recipe | Baked Pear Pies

Photography by Kym Grimshaw

Making little pastry leaves to go on a pie is a core memory for many of us. There is something about adding small artistic touches that elevates food out of functionality and into aesthetically-pleasing fabulousness.

Serves 4

For the pastry
225g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
120g fridge-cold butter, grated
2 tbsp icing sugar
Pinch of salt
1 egg, beaten with 2 tsp very cold water

For the pies
4 pears
2 tbsp milk, for glazing
Crème fraîche, for serving
Maple syrup, for drizzling

1 First, make the pastry. Put the flour in a bowl and add the grated butter. Rub the butter into the flour until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

2 Mix in the icing sugar and salt followed by the beaten egg mixture. Combine to make a rough dough using a table knife then turn out the pastry onto a work surface and bring it together into a ball. Wrap in cling film and put in fridge for 30 mins.

3 Preheat the oven to 175C/Fan 155C/ Gas 4.Peel and halve the pears, leaving the stem intact. Use a small knife to scoop out the core and seeds. Place flat side down on a baking sheet lined with baking paper.

4 Roll out your pastry so that it’s around 5mm thick. Cut it into four equal squares and place over each pear – they should be big enough to fit over a pear half. Cut away the pastry from the edge of each pear.

5 Make a couple of slits into the top of the pastry and use the pastry you cut away to create leaves. Attach these to the top of the pears with a little milk and then brush all over.

6 Bake for 20 mins.

7 Let the pies cool on the tray and then transfer them to serving plates, pastry side down. Top with crème fraîche and drizzle with maple syrup.

This recipe is just one of the ideas from our October issue’s Kitchen Therapy pages, which also include recipes for a Turmeric & Ginger Tonic, Mushroom Risotto with Crispy Sage, Cardamom Knots and Seed & Nut Brittle, alongside ideas for seasonal ways to pass the time while the oven is doing its work. The recipes are by Lottie Storey and the photography is by Kym Grimshaw.

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Recipe | Maritozzi (cream buns)

The cream-filled buns from Roma are having a bit of a moment right now. These mini versions work for breakfast, brunch, afternoon tea, merenda (snack), Tuesdays, etc…

Makes 12

4g fast action dried yeast (or 8g fresh yeast)

125ml whole milk, warmed to about 37°C

250g strong bread flour or Italian 00 flour, plus extra for dusting

50g caster sugar

1 large egg yolk

25ml neutral oil

1 tsp vanilla extract

Zest of 1 orange, coarsely grated

for the sugar glaze:

25g golden caster sugar

½ tsp sea salt

for the filling:

225ml whipping cream

2 tsp icing sugar

½ tsp vanilla extract

1 Make a sponge starter by mixing the yeast with the warmed milk until it’s dissolved, then mix in half the flour and sugar. Mix well by hand with a whisk, cover, and leave for 1 hr until risen, spongy and bubbly.

2 Combine all the remaining ingredients with the sponge starter and add the remaining flour, little by

little, mixing to a non-sticky dough.

3 Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for at least 10 mins until smooth.

4 Return the dough to a clean bowl, cover, and leave until doubled in size. Depending on the temperature, this will take about 1 hr at a room temp.

5 Knock back the dough and shape into a round, then divide into 12 even pieces (or weigh into 30g portions). Shape each piece into an oval by firstly rolling into a ball and very lightly pinching the dough underneath for a smooth shape. Place the dough ovals on 2 baking sheets lined with baking paper, not too close as they expand. Cover and leave to rise for 40 mins.

6 Preheat the oven to 200C/ Fan 180C/Gas 6. Bake the buns for 10 mins, or until golden brown.

7 For the glaze, place the sugar and salt in a pan with 2 tablespoons of water. Heat gently until the sugar’s dissolved and the glaze has thickened. Brush it over the buns straight from the oven and leave to cool on a rack.

8 Meanwhile, whip the cream with the icing sugar and vanilla until thickened. With a bread knife, slice each bun down the middle. Fill a piping bag with the cream and pipe it into each bun. Use a small palette knife to scrape the cream smooth and to give the maritozzi their recognisable finish.

Cook’s note: For other fillings, try pistachio cream mixed with cream, a chocolate cream or Nutella. Press the likes of strawberries, freeze-dried raspberries, chocolate or chopped nuts into the surface as decoration.

These cream buns are taken from Dolci Italiani by Ursula Ferrigno. Photography: Clare Winfield (Ryland Peters & Small).

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Tipple | Warm Apple Cider with Lemon & Rosemary

Serve outdoors as the weather determines – warm if there’s a nip in the air, or over ice if the sun still is shining.

Serves 6

100g caster sugar
3 slices ginger
1 ltr medium dry cider
200ml freshly pressed apple juice
Juice of half a lemon
6-8 sprigs of rosemary, to serve

1 Make a syrup by heating the sugar and ginger with 50ml of water over a low heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove the ginger and set aside.

2 Combine the other ingredients in a pan and heat gently. Add half the sugar syrup and taste, keep adding until you reach the desired sweetness.

3 Gently bruise the base of each rosemary sprig to release the flavour, add one to each glass and fill.

This recipe is taken from our September ‘Gathering’ pages, which this month takes the form of a menu for an allotment lunch with friends using grown-yourself veg. The menu includes Grilled Padron Peppers, Mackerel Pate, Courgette Feta Mint & Pine Nut Tart, Apple Kohlrabi & Salad, Tangy Tomato Chutney and a Plum & Almond Traybake. Recipes & styling by Anneliese Klos and Liz Boyd. Photography: by Urszula Soltys.

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Recipe | Greek Panzanella

This is a delicious merging of the Greek and Italian classics. Key ingredients include ripe, juicy, sun-kissed tomatoes, bread and olive oil with vinegar to bring it all together. Feel free to embellish with additional veg or fruit (a hint of peach or a few raspberries, perhaps) and fresh herbs, or scale it back to its bare bones with just dressed tomatoes and bread.

Serves 4

1 red onion, thinly sliced

1kg tomato (try a mix of colours)

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

Olive oil

2 slices pita bread or sourdough, stale or toasted

1 cucumber, thinly sliced

4 tbsp pitted olives or 2 tbsp capers (or a combination)

400g feta

Large handful of fresh herbs (such as dill, mint, basil, parsley, coriander, chervil and chives), finely chopped

1 Place the sliced onions in a bowl and pour boiling water over them. Leave to soak and soften while
you make up the rest of the salad.

2 Slice the tomatoes (or halve if they’re cherry tomatoes). Sprinkle with a pinch of the fresh herbs (finely chopped) as well as a pinch of salt and pepper. Splash the vinegar over. 

3 Tear the bread into bite-sized pieces – you can give it a quick flash in the oven to toast it gently first. Mix the bread through the tomatoes, drizzle with olive oil and arrange the mixture on a serving platter. 

4 Tuck the cucumber slices into the mix, arranging evenly over the top. 

5 Drain the onions and add them to the salad, along with the herbs. Gently fold through the mix and
dot the olive and/or capers on top.

6 Crumble the feta into bite-sized pieces and dot over the top. Season the salad with a good twist of black pepper and a last drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately or store in the fridge for up to 24 hours (bringing to room temperature before serving).

This recipe is just one of the ideas from our September Home Economics pages, which is all about the mighty tomato. You can also learn how to make gazpacho, cherry tomato bombs, pan con tomate and fermented ketchup. The recipes are by Rachel de Thample and the photography is by Ali Allen.

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Recipe | Fig & Goat's Cheese Filo Bundles

Photography by Kym Grimshaw

It’s the crunch of the filo pastry that’s worth paying attention to – and, of course, the peppery fig, cheese and walnut filling. Eat them al fresco so that any crumbs can be left for the birds.

Makes 12

You will need

12 large figs

250g soft goat’s cheese

4 tsp black peppercorns

100g walnuts, chopped

12 large filo pastry sheets

100g butter, melted

Handful chives

To make

1 Preheat your oven to 200C/Fan 180C/Gas 6 and line two baking trays with baking paper.

2 Remove the stems from the figs and score a deep cross in the top of each one, cutting about two-thirds of the way down. Gently squeeze the base of each fig to open them up slightly.

3 Remove the rind from the goat’s cheese and grind the black pepper. Mix together with the walnuts before dividing the mixture evenly between the figs. Try to get it as deeply into the fig as you can before squeezing the sides back up around it.

4 Divide each filo sheet into four and stack them up, sandwiched with a light layer of melted butter. On each stack, place a fig in the centre and then gather the pastry up around the sides of the fig, pressing to keep each one together.

5 Transfer the bundles to the baking trays and bake for 12-15 mins, or until the bundles are golden brown.

6 Allow to cool for 5 mins before scattering with the chives and serving while still warm.

While you wait…

While the filo bundles are in the oven, here’s a little mini project to keep your creative mind busy.

Fig leaves may get overshadowed by the fruit but they’re beautiful in their own right. Here, they take centre stage in a printmaking project that anyone can try. They make lovely labels for fig jam, too.

You will need:

Water-based acrylic paint

Palette or dish

Paint brushes or sponges

Fig leaves

Newspaper or scrap paper

Thick paper or card

How to make

1 Squeeze a little paint onto your palette. Using a paint brush or sponge, gently daub a fig leaf with paint until you have fully covered the stems and veins well.

2 Do a test print by placing the leaf paint-side down onto some newspaper or scrap paper. Place another piece of newspaper or scrap paper over the top side of the leaf and then press hard enough that the paint transfers from the leaf to the paper. Remove the top sheet and peel away the leaf. If the details of the leaf are lost, try using less paint or lighter pressure. If the print looks faint, increase the amount of paint or press more firmly.

3 Once you’re happy with the end result, begin printing onto your paper or card. Leave to dry thoroughly. These prints work beautifully as labels for the blackberry and fig leaf jam. Simply make a small hole in one corner, write onto the plain side, and attach to the jar with twine or string.

The recipe and project above are both taken from our August issue’s ‘Kitchen Therapy’ feature, which focuses on seasonal makes as well as making the most of simple kitchen tasks. The recipes and ideas are by Lottie Storey and the photography is by Kym Grimshaw.

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Tipple | Strawberry & Mint Lemonade Cocktail

Fruity and refreshing, just what’s needed as the sun sinks below the horizon

Serves 6

175g caster sugar

Small handful mint leaves, washed

400g strawberries, hulled and

quartered

200ml freshly squeezed lemon

juice (4-5 lemons)

Ice

Small measure of gin or vodka

per person (optional)

Strawberries, lemon slices and

mint leaves, to garnish

1 Gently bring the sugar, 1 litre of water and the mint leaves to a boil in a saucepan, stirring until the sugar has fully dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mint to infuse and the sugar syrup to cool.

2 Meanwhile, purée the strawberries in a blender and, if you’d prefern a smooth purée, strain it through a fine sieve to remove any seeds.

3 Combine the strawberry purée and sugar syrup in a large jug, add the lemon juice, and stir to combine.

4 To serve, pop a couple of ice cubes in each glass and pour the fruity cocktail over – you can also add gin or vodka for an alcoholic version. Garnish with strawberries, lemon slices and/or mint leaves.

Bartender’s note: This also works well with watermelon flesh or peaches.

This tipple is just one of the ideas from our August issue’s ‘Gathering’ feature, which this month is a picnic on the beach at sundown. The recipes are by Catherine Frawley and the photography is by Lisa James.

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Recipe | Seeded Grissini

Photography by Kym Grimshaw

Rolling stretchy dough gives a connection to your cooking – really feel the breadsticks take shape under your hands and let go of any idea of perfection. Let them be imperfectly wonky. If you’ve never made breadsticks from scratch before, you’ll be surprised by how easy and delicious they are.

Makes 16-20 breadsticks

250g bread flour

1 tsp instant yeast (or active dry yeast)

1 tsp fine salt

60ml olive oil (or extra virgin olive oil)

2-3 tbsp seeds (poppy seeds, sesame or chia seeds)

1 Combine the bread flour, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Pour in 135ml lukewarm water and the olive oil, then mix until you have a dough.

2 On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough for two mins, or until it’s smooth, elastic and easy to work with.

3 Place on a 30cm x 20cm baking tray which has been lined with baking paper and flatten the dough into a rectangle that fills the tray.

4 Brush the dough with a little olive oil and sprinkle over the seeds. Cover with cling film and leave in a warm place to rise for about an hour.

5 When ready, preheat the oven to 205C/Fan 185C/Gas 6. Once the dough has risen, use a pizza cutter to slice it lengthways into strips – around 1.5cm wide. You should get about 16-20 breadsticks.

6 Transfer each strip to one of two lined baking sheets, gently stretching each strip until they are a little longer but not too thin.

7 Bake for 15-20 mins, checking they don’t catch or burn, the transfer to a wire rack to cool.

This recipe is from our Kitchen Therapy feature in the June issue of The Simple Things, called ‘Take It Outside’ - a collection of recipes and projects that can all be done (at least partially) en plein air, including Pavlova with Berries & Rose Petal Cream, Blossom Ice Cubes, Lemon Possets, Whipped Feta Dip with Hot Honey & Crudites and Almond Presse. The recipes are by Lottie Storey and the photography by Kym Grimshaw.

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Recipe | Veggie Picnic Pie

Everybody loves a slice of pie, and this shortcrust pastry packed full of veggies is certain to
be a winner at any picnic

Serves 8

6 tbsp olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and finely sliced 

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

250g spinach, washed 

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh sage

1 tbsp apple cider vinegar 

1 large butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 1-2cm cubes 

1 sweet potato, peeled and cut
into cubes 

2 courgettes, ends cut off and roughly chopped

1 large aubergine, ends cut off and roughly chopped 

1 red pepper, stalk removed, deseeded and roughly chopped

2 x 320g packs of shortcrust pastry

100g parmesan cheese 

1 lemon, zested 

125g soft goat’s cheese

1 egg

1 Preheat the oven to 200C/Fan 180C/Gas 6. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan and gently fry the onion and garlic for about 10 mins, or until it starts to turn translucent. In the final minute, add the spinach and stir until it wilts. 

2 Add the chopped sage and apple cider vinegar and stir through. 

3 Place the squash and sweet potato in a large roasting tin with 2 tbsp of the olive oil, season and roast
for 45 mins, or until soft. 

4 Place the courgettes, aubergine and pepper in a large roasting tin. Season and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Roast for 35 mins, taking out halfway through to stir the veg, which ensures even cooking and stops them from sticking together. 

5 Combine the two pastry packs into one big ball and divide into one large piece (two-thirds) and one smaller piece (one-third). On a lightly-floured surface, roll out the larger piece into a circle a few millimetres thick, then place into a greased 23cm cake tin, letting it hang slightly over the sides.

6 Fill the base with the cooked onion, garlic and spinach. 

7 Grate half the parmesan on top and add half the lemon zest, then season. 

8 Crumble half the goat’s cheese over the filling, then add the roast peppers, aubergines and courgette, followed by the roasted sweet potato and squash. Grate the remaining parmesan and add the rest of the
zest before seasoning once again. Break up the remaining goat’s cheese over the top. 

9 Crack the egg into a small bowl, whisk it with a fork and use a pastry brush to spread the egg around the rim of the pastry. Roll the smaller pastry piece into a circle and place on top of the pie, pinching the edges together to seal the top and sides. Use your fingers to create a scalloped pattern around the rim. Brush the top with the rest of the beaten egg and make a small 2cm incision in the middle of the pastry top to allow the steam to escape during baking. 

10 Bake the pie for 40-45 mins, or until the pastry crust turns golden. Remove the pie from the oven
and place on a cooling rack. It can be served warm or cold.

This recipe is from our feature ‘All Out For Tea’ from our June issue, which features recipes and ideas for an afternoon of picnicking while watching cricket. As well as this delicious picnic pie you’ll find recipes for Homemade Lemonade, Cucumber Skewer Sandwiches, Sweet Potato & Feta Rolls, Ploughman’s Sandwiches and a Lemon & Raspberry Cake. The recipes are by Kay Prestney and the Photography by Rebecca Lewis.

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Recipe: A wild midsummer cocktail

Celebrating the solstice tonight? You can whip this cocktail up quickly or take your thyme and make the syrup, too. Happy Litha!

Serves 1
30ml thyme syrup* (that you prepared earlier) or simple syrup
(if you didn’t)
2 sprigs lemon thyme (if you haven’t made the thyme syrup)
2 large or 3 medium strawberries, washed and sliced
60ml white rum, vodka, or gin
22ml freshly-squeezed lemon juice
soda water
ice cubes

Garnish
lemon thyme sprig, sliced
strawberry
lemon wheel
straw

Tools
muddler
cocktail shaker with strainer
collins glass

1 Fill the glass with ice. If you haven’t made thyme syrup (below), smack 2 fresh sprigs of thyme between your palms to release the essential oils. Drop into the cocktail shaker with a dash of simple syrup.

2 If you have made thyme syrup, skip the step above and instead muddle the strawberry slices thoroughly with a dash of the thyme syrup in the shaker, to release all the strawberry juice. If you like, you can let them sit for about 30 mins to macerate slightly.

3 If you’re using fresh thyme, add strawberries now and muddle as above. For both methods, pour the rest of the thyme or simple syrup and your remaining ingredients (except the soda water) into the shaker.

4 Fill it two-thirds of the way up with ice, cover and shake hard for 20 seconds. Strain the mixture into the glass of ice. Don’t worry about tiny bits of thyme; they look attractive.

5 Garnish with a fresh sprigs of lemon thyme, strawberry slices, and a lemon wheel. Add the soda water and a straw.

*Thyme Syrup (for the Strawberry Lemony Heaven cocktail)

Makes approximately 250ml

250ml water
200g caster sugar
4 sprigs thyme, each about the length of a finger

Equipment
Sealable, heatproof presentation bottle, sterilized

1 Stir the water and sugar together in a non-stick pan over a low heat and let simmer for 2 mins.

2 Smack the unwashed thyme between your palms to release the oils and drop them into the pan. Immediately remove the pan from the heat. Let the thyme infuse for 10 mins.

3 While still piping hot, strain the liquid into a wide-mouthed pitcher, then funnel into the sterilized presentation bottle and seal.

4 Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.

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Cocktail recipes from Wild Cocktails from the Midnight Apothecary by Lottie Muir (CICO Books, £16.99). Over 100 recipes using home-grown and foraged fruits, herbs and edible flowers. www.thecocktailgardener.co.uk

Recipe | Chopped Salad

Photography by Hugh Johnson

This recipe is all about the crunch. Thanks to the red cabbage and beetroot, it’s striking, too.

Serves 4–6

3 radishes, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

¼ red or white cabbage, finely chopped

2 gherkins, finely diced

1 mini cucumber or ¼ cucumber, diced

2 cooked beets, diced

1 spring onion, finely chopped

1 apple, finely chopped, tossed

with the juice of ½ lemon

For the dressing:

½ lemon, juiced

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp creamed horseradish or

wholegrain mustard

1 tsp thyme leaves

½ tsp sugar

1 Start by making the dressing. Place the lemon juice, olive oil, creamed horseradish or mustard, thyme leaves and sugar into a jar. Screw on the lid and shake well to combine. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

2 Mix the salad ingredients together in a large serving bowl. Pour over the dressing and toss to coat thoroughly. Serve immediately.

Taken from The Kew Gardens Salad Book by Jenny Linford (Kew Publishing). Recipe photography: Hugh Johnson. For more salads from Kew, don’t miss our feature, Salad Days, in our June issue.

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Recipe | Spring Beans on Toast

The classiest kind of beans on toast – using broad beans and elderflower as the secret stars.

Serves 4

1.5kg broad beans in pods

Bunch of fresh mint leaves, chopped

Bunch of fresh chives, chopped

115g ricotta cheese

1 lemon, zested

4 slices sourdough bread

Fresh chive flowers, optional

For the elderflower dressing:

2 tsp djion mustard

2 tsp honey

2 tbsp elderflower vinegar

100ml olive oil

To make

1 Pod the broad beans and bring a pan of water to the boil. Add the beans and cook for about 3 mins.

2 Drain the beans and skin them if the beans are large. Place in a bowl, adding chopped mint and chives.

3 To make the dressing, place the mustard, honey and vinegar into a mixing bowl and season with

salt and pepper. Whisk together and slowly pour in the oil, whisking until it becomes emulsified. Taste

the dressing and adjust the seasoning as necessary. Add enough to coat the broad beans and herbs.

4 Mix the ricotta cheese with the lemon zest and season to taste.

5 Toast the bread and spread with ricotta cheese before spooning the beans on top. Drizzle with dressing and top with chive flowers, if using.

This recipe is taken from our feature, Respect Your Elders, in our May issue, which includes lots of recipes for using elderflowers, including cakes, cordials, curd and vinegar. The recipes are by Philippa Vine and photography by Anna Rubingh.

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Recipe | Bakewell Tart Squares

These sweet squares can be eaten on the hoof or while reclined on a picnic blanket. Cream optional but very much recommended

Serves 6-8

For the pastry:
150g butter or margarine (margarine makes an easier to handle pastry, but use butter if you prefer)
300g plain flour
50g caster sugar
1 egg

For the filling:
5 tbsp raspberry jam
200g raspberries
250g butter, softened
250g ground almonds
250g caster sugar
5 eggs
50g flaked almonds

To serve:
Icing sugar
Whipped cream
Mint leaves

1 Start off by making the pastry. Rub the butter/margarine into the flour and sugar until you have a sand-like consistency.

2 Beat the egg and then bring it together with the flour mixture on a lightly floured surface to form a smooth pastry.

3 Roll the pastry out to fit the tin you’re using – you can use a 30cm diameter round tin or a 22 x 33cm tin. It should be about 3mm thick but make it 5mm if you love pastry!

4 Preheat the oven to 180C/ Fan 160C/Gas 4. Place baking beans or rice on top of the pastry and bake for 45 mins, or until pale golden.

5 Once baked, remove the beans or rice and allow the pastry to cool, although keep the oven on.

6 Once cooled, spread the jam over the base and distribute the raspberries evenly.

7 Put the butter, ground almonds and caster sugar in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Dollop the mixture into the pastry case and smooth out, then sprinkle the almonds over the top. Return to the oven and bake for 45 mins more, or until golden and set.

8 Once cooled, dust with icing sugar, cut into squares or slices and serve with whipped cream, fresh berries and mint leaves.

This recipe is taken from our May ‘Gathering’ feature, which this month is a menu for a woodland picnic. It also includes recipes for Cornflake Chicken, Egg, Beetroot & Potato Salad with Dill, Baby Carrots with Whipped Feta and Apple & Mint Punch. The recipes are by Becky Cook and the photography is by Will Heap.

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