Use old bins to grow veg

Reusing old or damaged bins for container gardening is a wheelie good idea

ALL YOU NEED:
An old wheelie bin
Stones or gravel
Seeds: this works with growing (or beginning growing) almost anything
Soil

1 Drill four large holes in the bottom of the bin for drainage.
2 Add stones and gravel to the bottom of the bin, how much you need will depend on what you’re planting and how much soil they’ll need.
3 Fill with compost to just over halfway.
4 Create holes in soil for your seeds, spacing dependent on seed package instructions..
5 Keep it well watered, and add fertiliser regularly.

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Growing | Hydroponics

No longer the preserve of commercial growers, hydroponics - a soil-less method of growing leafy veg - is made for urban edible-gardeners. 

Growing veg can be tricky if you don't have a garden to cultivate or a sunny balcony to fill with tubs. Redemption for would-be urban gardeners, however, could lie with hydroponics, a controlled method of growing plants in water rather than soil

But what to grow?

Stick to leafy salad veg and herbs for the best results. Which varieties you choose to grow will depend on the size of your growing system: the lights of the Ikea Indoor Gardening System, for example, are 30cm above the growing tray, so any plants that grow taller than that won't fit. Plant 1-3 seeds per plug, depending on the plant, and remember that different seeds germinate at different rates. You should see plants with leaves big enough to eat after 5-7 weeks. 

Cherry tomatoes

Small tomatoes often planted in containers will also suit hydroponic systems. 'Balconi Red', 'Bajaja' and 'Sweet 'n' Neat Cherry Red' are all nice and compact.

Chillies

Smaller varieties such as 'Krakatoa' and 'Basket of Fire' will fit hydroponic systems best, but taller plants can be pinched out to encourage width rather than height. 

Lettuce

Most varieties will flourish in a hydroponic system. Ones with looser leaves such as Lollo Rossa, Cos (red and green) and Butterhead varieties suit hydroponic cropping better than tightly packed ones like Iceberg.

Other leaves

Pick the leaves of spinach, rocket, pak choi, oriental mustard and garden cress when they are young for best flavour. They are often found together in salad leaves seed mixes. 

Herbs 

A handful of fresh herbs in snipping distance is a boon to any cook. Most thrive in hydroponic conditions: try basil, chives, coriander, mint, parsley or lemon balm. 

Turn to page 106 of February's The Simple Things for more of our feature on Hydroponics, including what you need to start out. 

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Garden hacks | Reuse cooking water on your plants

Don’t let water go to waste: it can add moisture and nutrition for your plants

Get around water scarcities. Re-use cooking water. Take out whatever you’ve been cooking and let the water cool to room temperature. You can also re-use dishwashing water, if your cleaner is organic and non-oil-based. 

Add nutrients. Whatever you’ve cooked will mean that the water has extra nutrition for plants. For example, calcium from hard boiled eggs, or iron from spinach. Just avoid using water that’s been salted.

Kill weeds. Or don’t let your water have time to cool after boiling, and (carefully!) tip it over areas with weeds.

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Moon planting | Biodynamic gardening

Planting with the moon needn’t be a space odyssey. A little know-how goes a long way. Hear how Kate Turner and Will Heap grow biodynamic fruit and veg and raise free-range hens on their allotment - turn to page 112 of June's The Simple Things for more and read on for the biodynamic basics

Biodynamic gardening is similar to organic gardening in that they both work in harmony with nature, but biodynamic growing goes one step further. In a nutshell, soil fertility is enhanced with specific herb, flower and mineral preparations, and fruit and veg are grown according to the rhythms of the planets and moon. Crop rotation, rich compost and companion planting are also used to produce food that is stronger, tastier and has a higher yield. The basic premise is that you put more into the garden than you take out. We love gardening this way and have seen some great results, but it’s not meant to be a dogma and we don’t get bogged down by it. For us, the allotment will always be about the simple pleasure of getting our hands dirty and the joy of eating our own veg.

THE‘PREPS’: biodynamic preparations are specially formulated natural remedies that have various jobs to do around the garden. Yarrow, chamomile, nettle, oak bark, dandelion, valerian, equisetum, horn manure and horn silica preparations help to enliven the soil and increase the vitality of your crops. Make them yourself or buy ready- made from the Biodynamic Association UK.

MOON GARDENING: you don’t need to be an astronomer to garden by the moon – biodynamic gardening calendars are available to guide you. They suggest the best times to do allotment jobs, such as planting and pruning when the moon is descending, or harvesting when the moon is ascending. Sowing seeds just before the full moon is always a winner on our allotment.

CROP ROTATION: we rotate on a four-yearly cycle based on groupings of leaf, root, fruit and flower, each representing the part of the plant that we want to enhance and eat.

COMPOST: an amazing way to enrich your soil, literally putting back what you’ve taken out. Adding biodynamic preparations to your compost heap is also the most effective way of getting their benefits into your garden and onto your plate.
 
CPP: short for ‘cowpat pit’ and a brilliant natural fertiliser. We have a sunken half- barrel in the corner of our allotment that we fill with cowpats from a local farm. Add the preparations and cover; let it quietly rot down before using anywhere and everywhere on the allotment.

COMPANION PLANTING: widely used in both organic and biodynamic gardening to discourage pests and disease (see The Simple Things Issue 59). Try planting nasturtiums with broad beans to lure blackfly away from the crop, or chives with carrots to discourage carrot fly.

LIQUID TEAS AND NATURAL FERTILISERS: simple plant-based sprays to boost the health of your crops and stimulate growth. Submerge a sack of comfrey and nettle leaves in a water butt to create a potent (and very smelly) liquid fertiliser.

DYNAMISING LIQUIDS: vigorously stirring liquid manures and plant ‘teas’ into a vortex before use is thought to enhance the vitality of the liquid and strengthen the benefits for your plants. Our children love to see who can create the biggest whirlpool in the bucket!
 

HELP AT HAND

The Biodynamic Association UK: Great for advice and ready-made preparations.

Calendars: The Maria Thun Biodynamic Calendar is the most comprehensive. lunarorganics.com sells a simple version with a booklet to help get you started.

Biodynamic seeds: Stormy Hall and the Seed Co-operative produce top-quality open-pollinated seeds.

Books:
Biodynamic Gardening by DK, featuring advice from Kate and Will.
The Biodynamic Year by Maria Thun (Temple Lodge Publishing).
Biodynamic Gardening for Health and Taste by Hilary Wright (Floris).
Gardening with the Moon & Stars by Elen Sentier (Earth Books).
 

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Growing: Edible perennials plan

Even if your garden is really tiny, it can still produce an abundance of delicious food. All you need is a planter and a plan.

We’ve all been there; you get lots of seeds you fancy but are not sure when, where or how to plant them, so you just stick them in soil, water, and hope for the best. If you don’t succeed, it can be hard to work out why.

Some plants grow well together, others don’t. Some crops will need other plants to give them shelter and support to grow to their best, others prefer open space and to be left alone to get on with it.

With natural planting, you create a diverse pocket of wildlife in an urban space and one that will provide rich tastes, colours and textures.

If you follow the simple planting plans on page 105 of May's The Simple Things, you’ll realise how easy growing your own food can be. They are designed for 1 sq m raised beds but are scaleable and feature plants that work well together, as nature intended. If you don’t like a particular vegetable then replace it with something similar that likes the same conditions. The plans allow you to grow several crops at different heights, each of which provide symbiotic benefits, resulting in more food. This means less watering, no digging, few weeds and no chemicals. Result! 

Below is a plan for edible perennials. 

PLAN 4

Perennial possibilities

If you don’t have a lot of time, or just think that growing annuals is a bit of a waste of energy, then you could grow plants that keep going for years and years, and indeed only get better over time.

Plot make-up

·      At least 4-6 hours of full sun

·      Water every other day

·      1-2 hours a week of your time

·      Eating your veg within 25-30 days

Plants you’ll be growing

A word of advice…

Consider using a portion of your plot for perennial crops, which live for a long time so you’ll only need to plant them once to get harvests for many years. They’ll also need less watering once they’re established, as they will develop more extensive root systems than annual or biennial crops. Some of these vegetables, such as the artichokes and asparagus, will actually need a few years to establish before you can harvest them, but after that they will go on and on. Others, cavolo nero and rainbow chard, for example, should provide you with a crop within a season, but they are perennial so they should see you through many years. Fruit trees, like a delicious apple or pear, are a good perennial choice as they keep producing year after year. I'd suggest either going with rhubarb or a dwarf fruit tree. Even if you don’t have a lot of space you can grow these – choose a dwarf tree, place it in any container and it will fruit for you. Other fruit, such as strawberries, are perennial too and won’t need much attention either.

Taken from The City Grower by Matt Franks (Kyle Books) 

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Growing: A city allotment

Bloggers and enthusiastic veg growers, Ade and Sophie Sellars tell us about the joys of harvesting their own and life on their plot

Sophie and Ade took on their allotment three years ago to grow more veg. Little did they know that it would change their lives. Sophie used to organise film shoots but now writes about gardening and cooking, and Ade used to work in TV but is now a photographer and horticulturalist. Together they produce a blog Agents of Field, which won Blog of the Year 2016.

“If you are interested in taking on an allotment, contact your local council and see what the situation is. You might be lucky like us, and not have to wait. But even if you do have to wait, try growing things at home first. We still grow herbs and berries in our back garden, along with rhubarb, which we grow in pots. You can easily grow tomatoes on a sunny balcony, and a windowsill is great for herbs and microgreens.

“In January, when there was the big furore over the salad shortage because adverse weather conditions had affected supplies from Spain, Sophie planted some pea shoots on the windowsill in our living room, and we were harvesting our own salad three weeks later.

“Don’t be discouraged if something fails, there’s always the following year to try it again. I’ve grown most vegetables by now, to be honest, but it’s always exciting to try something new. See what takes your fancy and give it a go!

“We’ve had our allotment for three years, and it has become such a central part of our lives. I jokily refer to it as my ‘fortress of solitude’ – it’s where I go when I want to escape the bustle of London life. It’s taught me so much, and I have a real passion for growing things now, something I wasn’t remotely interested in only a few years ago.

“Since taking on the allotment, we’ve launched an award-winning gardening and food blog, I’ve retrained in horticulture with the RHS at Capel Manor and Regent’s Park, and I’m now embarking on a new career in garden writing and photography. It’s totally changed my life and I love it!”

Turn to page 108 of April’s The Simple Things for more of Sophie and Ade’s allotment advice, plus their recipe for Rhubarb and banana squares.

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Garden hacks: DIY seed tapes

Seed tapes – biodegradable strips with the seeds spaced at regular intervals – make planting a little easier. Simply bury the tape rather than faffing with fiddly individual seeds. Make your own and put aside for planting later.

YOU WILL NEED:
biodegradable unbleached loo roll
3 tbsp unbleached flour
1.5 tbsp water
toothpick
small spoon
pen
ruler
seeds

1 Pull off a few lengths of the loo roll. 
2 Fold in half length-wise to create a fold line. Unfold.
3 Mix flour and water into a paste. 
4 Dip the toothpick into the glue paste, before dabbing onto a seed. 
5 Place the seeds into the middle of the paper on the fold, spaced per the packet instructions.
6 Once all seeds are in place, paste along the paper edge with the spoon, before refolding to seal. 
7 Roll up, then store somewhere cool and dry in a sealed container. To plant, prepare the soil, according to packet instructions, and unfurl the tape. Cover over with soil and give it a good water.

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Nest: Fritillaries

Of all the spring-flowering bulbs, the snake’s head fritillary must be the prettiest. Its chequered, bell-shaped flowers are often compared to an Art Nouveau Tiffany lampshade, and you can see why, especially as the yellow stamens resemble filaments.

Seek cut blooms in florists or, if you are especially fortunate, in a damp grassy bit of your very own garden. Cut near the base of the stem and enjoy its delicate, patterned petals and slender leaves – surely the embodiment of fresh spring days. 

Go and see them:

One of the most famous meadows is at Magdalen College, Oxford, where fritillaries have been growing since about 1785.

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Give it a grow: Violas (Heartsease)

WHAT IS IT? 

Violas are the daintier but tougher cousin of the pansy. Perfect for adding colour to a dull, partially shady spot in your plot, they are compact enough to thrive under larger shrubs and plants as well as provide the perfect partnership to small bulbs for most of the year.

WHY WOULD YOU? 

Thanks to a bunch of innovative plant breeders, these days violas are happy to put on a show with only the merest flash of sun during the shorter days, as well as coping in cold, wet and windy weather. They flower continuously, too – good news as some varieties are edible and can be added to salads, puddings and drinks. 

WHY WOULDN’T YOU? 

You might be turned off by the gaudy two-tone varieties generally on offer in your local supermarkets and DIY stores.

However, venture online and you’ll discover much more interesting varieties available from independent nurseries and specialists, such as boutsviolas.co.uk.

They can be susceptible to slugs and snails so be vigilant and pick the little blighters off when you see them. You can also try organic slug pellets to spoil their fun. 

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Gardening: How to attract butterflies

Plant a few pollen-rich flowers in your garden and watch it come alive with butterflies and bees

Turn to page 108 of July's The Simple Things for our feature on how to open a nectar bar in your garden, and follow the ideas below.

1. Leave a few fallen fruits on the ground. In late summer, butterflies, such as the Red Admiral and Painted Lady, will feed on fruit juices in fallen over-ripe pears, plums and apples.

2. Avoid pesticides. If you’re struggling with pests, you can make your own organic sprays (see Issue 48 for recipes) that won’t harm insects or the environment.

3. Don’t forget caterpillars. Stinging nettles, thistles, holly and ivy are good sources of food and act as hosts on which butterflies lay their eggs. 

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Give it a grow: Spring onions

WHY GROW THEM? 

Easy and fast- growing, spring onions are also very versatile. They make a great addition to the veg patch, work well squeezed in between ornamental plants in a herbaceous border and are very happy in containers. Just make sure they have some sunshine and are in well-drained soil. 

WHEN TO SOW? 

If you want to be able to enjoy fresh spring onions over the summer, start them off in April and sow every three weeks. There’s no need to start seeds off in small pots, pop them in a prepared channel about 2cm deep – you can make this with the edge of your trowel. It’s important to rake the soil first, removing any weeds, so that it’s a fine, crumbly texture and the seeds can settle into the soil rather than falling in between large lumps.

WHEN TO HARVEST? 

Ready in just eight weeks. You’ll get small, but deliciously sweet, crops if you sow in July. Sow in August and September to overwinter for early spring pickings.

WHICH ONE? 

‘White Lisbon’ is a crisp, tasty traditional variety but for something a bit different, Sarah Raven recommends ‘North Holland Blood Red’ for its flavour, looks and excellent value for money,as it will bulk up to the size of a red onion if left in the ground.

Read more:

From the April issue

Gardening posts

Herb posts

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Growing: Fruit and nut trees

In December's The Simple Things, Cinead McTernan explores the world of fruit and nut trees and selects the species most suitable for a domestic garden. Here, we pick out some of our favourite fruit and nut recipes from previous issues.

Spiced pickled quince

Looks stunning in the jar and goes well with soft goats’ cheese or cold meat.

400g granulated sugar
700ml cider vinegar
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp coriander leaves
1 bay leaf
4 quinces

1. Put sugar, vinegar, peppercorns and herbs into a large saucepan and bring slowly to the boil.

2. Peel, core and quarter the quinces; cut each quarter into three and place in the liquid. Bring back to the boil and then turn the heat down and simmer for 40 mins. The quince will soften and turn a rich pink colour.

3. Allow to cool slightly and then spoon into sterilised jars before pouring the liquor over and sealing. They’ll keep for a couple of months.

Recipe by Lia Leendertz, taken from issue 29 (November 2014 - buy back issue now)

Quick walnut tart

This is very fine if you make your own pastry, but once in a while shop-bought pastry can make the difference between making something and not.

240g sugar
180ml double cream
2 tbsp good honey
1 tsp fennel seed, ground
1 tsp cinnamon, ground
200g walnuts
500g sweet pastry
1 egg, lightly beaten

1 Preheat oven to 180C/Fan 160/350F. 

2 Add sugar to a pan on a moderate heat. Stir as it starts to turn to caramel, and once or twice more until all the sugar turns.

3 With the pan still on the heat, slowly pour in the cream, stirring as you do – it will form ribbons but keep going and it will become smooth. Stir in the honey, fennel, cinnamon and nuts. Leave to cool while you prepare the pastry case.

4 Butter and flour a 22-24cm tart tin.

5 On a floured surface, roll out the pastry to 5mm thick and line the tin.

6 Spike the pastry using a fork and bake for 10 mins. Brush pastry with beaten egg, and bake another 7 mins.

7 Spoon the nut mixture evenly into the tart and bake for about 30 mins in the centre of the oven. Let cool for 10 mins, before removing the side of the tin and leaving to cool on a rack.

Recipe by Mark Diacono, taken from issue 40 (October 2015 - buy back issue now)

Recipe by Lia Leendertz, photography by Kirstie Young

Gianduja liqueur

This chocolate and hazelnut liqueur is definitely worth the effort of spending a little time with the nutcracker. Gianduja is the forerunner of nutella, a chocolate and hazelnut paste created in Turin during the Napoleonic era, when a resourceful chocolatier mixed his limited supply of cacao with hazelnuts to make it stretch further. This is adapted from a recipe in Andrew Schloss’s Homemade Liqueurs and Infused Spirits. Siphoned off into pretty little bottles, it makes wonderful Christmas presents.

450g hazelnuts
200g cacao nibs
750ml vodka (40% proof)
300ml simple syrup* (you can buy this but it’s easy to make, see below)

1 In a large, dry frying pan, toast the hazelnuts until they start to take colour, then tip them into a cloth and rub off as many of the skins as you can easily get to come off.

2 Pour the cacao nibs into the frying pan and toast briefly, until the aroma hits your nose. Tip out into a cool bowl.

3 In batches, grind hazelnuts and cacao nibs in a food processor until they are the texture of coarse sand (you could use a pestle and mortar instead, but this will obviously take some time). Tip everything into a large, sealable jar and pour on the vodka. Stir well.

4 After around ten days, strain the mixture into a sterilised and cooled jar. Use a colander lined with muslin, and when the bulk of the liquid has passed through, suspend the muslin above the jar and let it drip through for an hour or so. Don’t squeeze or press on the mixture to extract more liquid, as this will cloud the liqueur.

5 Stir in the cooled simple syrup and it is then ready to drink, or to store for up to a year.

*To make the simple syrup
1 I always use American ‘cups’ measurements for making syrup, because you need an equal volume of water and sugar and this is the most straightforward way to measure them. You will need around 1¼ cups each of sugar and water. But if you prefer, this equates to around 300ml water and about 200g sugar.
2 Put the sugar and water into a saucepan and warm through gently until the sugar has dissolved, then turn up the heat and simmer for a minute. Take off the heat and allow to cool.

Recipe by Lia Leendertz, taken from issue 39 (September 2015 - buy back issue now)

Medlar jelly

Little accompanies rich meats and cheese as well as a good jelly. This deep amber preserve has just the right mix of sharp and sweet, with a fruity edge

1kg medlars, quartered (ideally around half bletted, half not)
juice of half–1 lemon
around 500g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod (optional)

1. Put the medlars in a large pan and pour in just enough water to cover. Add the juice of half a lemon, more if you fancy a sharper flavour. Bring to the boil, lower the temperature and simmer for an hour.

2. Leave to strain overnight through a jelly bag or muslin into a bowl.

3. Put a small plate into the fridge to chill. Measure the juice and pour it into a clean pan. For each 500ml of juice, add 375g of caster sugar.

4. Split the vanilla pod along its length and add to the liquid. Warm gently, stirring as the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to a rolling boil, then boil unstirred, for 5 mins.

5. Turn off the heat and test for the setting point by spooning a few drops onto the cold plate, leaving it for a minute then pushing it with your finger. It should wrinkle. If not, test again in 5 mins.

6. Pour the jelly into warm, sterilised jars and seal. It will keep in a cool, dark place for at least a year, often much longer. Once open, store in fridge - it should last months.

Recipe by Mark Diacono, taken from issue 41 (November 2015 - buy back issue now) 

Almond butter

If you want to make homemade almond butter, you just need almonds and a food processor. Head over to digital editor Lottie Storey's blog - Oyster & Pearl - for a very easy recipe.

December's The Simple Things is full of festive makes and bakes, wreaths of hawthorn and bay, and twinkly lights a-plenty. Buy, download or subscribe now.

Offer: The Edible Garden Show and Good Life Live

Join The Simple Things at The Edible Garden Show and Good Life Live this March!

Good Life Live, a newly launched lifestyle show, takes place alongside its sister, The Edible Garden Show, 20-22 March 2015.

From pro plot holders to windowsill wonder growers The Edible Garden Show will provide all the inspiration, innovation and information for you to #getreadytogrow this season. Good Life Live is packed full of experts talks, foraging information, bee keeping, preserving, chicken keeping and animal husbandry. With celebrity chefs, Rachel Green and Mark Lloyd in the CookIt! theatre there’s plenty to provide inspiration when digging for your dinner plate. Going beyond your plot, Good Life Live covers outdoor living, small holdings, travel, health & wellbeing and more.

Find out more.

Ticket offer for readers of The Simple Things

Get 2 tickets for £25 by using code: TST225 - that’s a 37% discount on door prices! 

To book your tickets, which give access to both Good Life Live and The Edible Garden Show, please call the ticket hotline on 0871 230 3451 or visit www.theediblegardenshow.co.uk.

Plants for free: How to collect seeds

The flowering season may be coming to an end but there is still abundance in the garden. This is the time to collect seeds, propagate and divide.

October is the time to harvest a different sort of crop: seeds, cuttings and divided plants to fill the garden with colour next year. Here’s how to go about it...

Collect your own seeds

Set off with a brown paper bag, a pair of scissors and a skip in your step. If you want to bulk up stocks of a favourite plant or ensure new supplies of an annual, now’s the time to collect their seeds. Foxgloves (Digitalis purpurea), love-in-a-mist (nigella damascena), cosmos (cosmos bipinnatus) and honesty (lunaria annua) are ideal for beginners and will easily store and germinate the following spring. However, there are many other annuals as well as perennials, biennials, alpines, ornamental grasses, vegetables, herbs and some trees and shrubs that can all be grown from seed that you’ve collected.

1 Choose your plants carefully

Go for strong, healthy ones as they’re likely to have good- quality seed. However, be aware if they’re hybrids (specially bred plants that are unlikely to have the same qualities as the parent plant) rather than species, as the plant won’t “come true” from seed. In the case of hybrids, either buy new plants the following year or be prepared for the collected seeds to produce something completely different from this year’s plants.

2 Collect the seeds

Once you’ve decided which plants you’re saving seed from, the trick is to collect it just before it has dispersed. It’s a bit of a waiting game, but once the seed head has ripened and changed colour (from green to brown, black or red) and is dry and crisp, it’s time to spring into action. Pick individual seed heads and use separate paper bags for each species or, if they’ll come away easily, place a paper bag over the seed head and gently shake.

3 Dry the seeds

Once you’ve gathered all the seeds you want, lay them out on a warm windowsill or a greenhouse bench – you can even find a spot in the airing cupboard. You need to give them time to dry out so you can get to the seed more easily. Clean away the ‘chaff’ or casing until you’re left with just the seed. Check to see which seeds you’ve collected and if they need to be sown straight away. Hellebores, for example, can be stored to sow next spring when the weather warms up.

4 Transfer your seeds into individual paper packets and label them

You’ll be surprised how satisfying this is. Keep them in an airtight container and, if you have any sachets of silica gel from new shoes or bags, place a couple in with the seeds to absorb excess moisture, which would otherwise cause the seeds to rot. If not, add a handful or two of rice to the container and find a spot for the container in the fridge.

Want more? Turn to page 97 of October's The Simple Things. Buy or download your copy now.

Jekka McVicar's useful but less obvious herbs

Read our feature on Jekka McVicar (page 90 of August's The Simple Things)? Add her suggestions for useful but less obvious herbs to your shopping list.

1. Borage (Borago officinalis)

This frost-hardy annual has attractive, star-shaped, blue flowers in summer which can be used in drinks and salads. Its young leaves pep up salads and mature leaves can be cooked to make a delicious summer soup (chill first). Height: 60cm.

2. Celery leaf (Apium graveolens)

A hardy biennial with tiny, green-white flowers in the summer of the second year. The leaves have a strong celery flavour and young ones are good in salads or as a flavouring in soups and sauces. It is also used medicinally to ease osteo-arthritis. Height: 30cm-1m.

3. Myrtle (Myrtus communis)

The small white flowers of this frost-hardy, evergreen shrub have golden stamens in summer followed by blue/black berries in autumn. Its dark-green, shiny, oval, aromatic leaves are good with roast, pork and game dishes and delicious sprinkled on roast vegetables. Height: up to 3m.

4. Red Orach (Atriplex hortensis var. rubra)

Use the young dark red leaves of this hardy annual in salads or cook its mature leaves like spinach. One word of warning: it's an enthusiastic self seeder! Height: 1m.

5. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)

A hardy perennial with large flat umbels of small yellow flowers in summer followed by aromatic edible seeds and soft green feathery foliage. Complements fish, pork and salads. Height: up to 2.1m.

6. Winter Savory (Satureja montana)

The small white flowers of this hardy perennial are tinged with pink in summer. The dark green, linear, pungent leaves are good for salt-free diets. Height: 30cm.

Image: Jason Ingram

For more on Jekka McVicar, buy or download your copy of August's The Simple Things.

July book club: The giving garden

Nothing beats growing your own, whether that's on a patio., in a window box or even just a pot, this month inside The Simple Things we give you some tips on how to turn the tiniest of spaces into big harvests, but if you need a little more inspiration here are our top five books on how to get the most from your garden/trolley/tub etc

Teeny Tiny Gardening Emma Hardy

If you can't go out, go up, Emma Hardy shows you how to make herbs, vegetables and salad leaves thrive in pots on balconies and doorsteps, no garden needed.  The book retails at £14.99 but readers of The Simple Things can get a discount call 01256 302699 quote GLR 8BN to purchase a copy at the special price of £12.99 including free P&P!

Good Companions Josie Jeffery

The ancient practice of companion planting is a simple, eco-friendly method of combining species that help each other out. Revived by American back‑to-the-land activist Bolton Hall in the early 20th century and taken up by the Good Lifers of the 1960s and 1970s, it’s perfect for busy modern gardeners too. Good Companions: The Mix & Match Guide to Companion Planting explains the history and benefits of the technique, and offers top combining tips, such as dandelions and fruit trees, or clover and cabbage. Flipbook pages help you to mix and match your chosen plant, whether tomato, peach or plum, with the best partners to nourish its roots, deter pests and enhance flavour – all totally chemical-free. Keen gardeners and novices alike will find much to learn and use in Jeffery’s highly readable guide.

The Speedy Vegetable GardenMark Diacono & Lia Leendertz

Time is of the essence with this bright little book, which promises crops within weeks, days and even hours. The Speedy Vegetable Garden offers tips on how to sow, nurture and harvest 50 quick grows, such as the herb cilantro, which takes 14 days, or fennel, edible after ten. It also offers alternative varieties of traditional slow-growing plants, such as dwarf French beans, which take 60 days, or early potatoes, ready in 75. Perfect for the busy urban gardener, plants can be grown in pots and on windowsills for quick, healthy sustenance.

HOMEGROWN REVOLUTION James Wong

Superfoods are big business, but ironically they can also be tricky to find. With his new book, James Wong shows how simple it is to grow unusual greens, veg and herbs at home. He’s also keen to point out that many of these crops are easier to grow than what he dubs ‘wartime ration book’ allotment crops. He shows how to grow a quirky selection, including cucamelons, Tasmanian mountain pepper, quinoa and red strawberry popcorn. Each ingredient comes with how to grow, harvest and eat them. And, most importantly, a great set of recipes is included too.

Gifts from the Garden Debora Robertson The garden can provide an infinite source of inspiration, and in her book, Debora Robertson takes herbs, flowers, fruit, vegetables and nuts to make special and unusual gifts to give away. You can learn how to make decorated stationery, herbal face wash and even marigold cheese, with flowers and ingredients that you have grown yourself. All the instructions and recipes in the book are beautifully laid out, with great photography and lots of extra tips and suggestions. Plus there are ideas for taking things from your garden and using them as embellishments for when you are wrapping the gifts you’ve made.

Top tips for growing tomatoes not seen in Issue 8

We all know how disappointing the British summer can be. Ideally we'd all have greenhouses or poly tunnels, but if you have neither don't despair. Last year I grew one single cherry tomato plant in a pot on a sunny windowsill - it turned into a vast plant and produced more fruit than I believed possible. All I did was water regularly and feed it. The poor tomato suffers more than most outside in the rain, and is more likely to get tomato blight and an array of other viruses, most of which end up killing the plants.

There are a few things you can do to improve your chances of getting a decent crop.

1. Be prepared to cosset them a little, feeding regularly and keeping them sheltered from cold wind.

2. Grow those varieties that suit your location. If they have to be outside choose cherry types such as Gardener's Delight, Sungold and Black Krim, all of which will ripen outside given some sun.

3. Try growing cherry tomato variety 'Tumbling Tom' in a hanging basket with basil for company. These will tolerate outside conditions in the summer, and are either red or yellow fruits.

4. Grow several varieties - that way you'll soon learn which grow best in your garden or which you prefer to eat. And you're more likely to produce a crop from a variety of different plants.

5. Be prepared to ripen fruit indoors on a sunny windowsill. Put them in a paper bag with a banana and this will help to ripen them. But any green tomatoes do make great chutney.