Recipe | Pork and Leek Stew with Thyme Dumplings

A much-needed filling meal for a winter’s day, after a few hours working in the garden

Serves 4

4 tbsp olive oil
1kg diced pork shoulder
1 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
75g diced pancetta
275g trimmed leeks, finely sliced
500ml dry cider
1 tbsp chopped sage leaves
2 thyme sprigs
500ml chicken stock

For the dumplings:
150g plain flour, plus extra for rolling
1 tsp baking powder
75g suet
½ tsp flaky salt
2 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
120ml cold water

1 Preheat the oven to 170C/Fan 150C/ Gas 3. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a large casserole dish over a high heat. Toss the pork in the seasoned flour then fry half in the hot oil until brown. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the rest of the pork and the remaining oil, lifting it out once browned and leaving any fatty juices behind.

2 Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the pancetta and fry for 2-3 mins until golden. Add the leeks and a pinch of salt and sweat gently for 10-15 mins, or until very soft. Add the cider and bring to a bubble for a couple of minutes to burn off the alcohol and deglaze the pan.

3 Return the pork to the casserole along with the sage, thyme and chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, put the lid on, then transfer to the oven for 1.5 hrs, or until the pork is falling apart. Check it after an hour – if it looks dry, add a splash more stock; if it’s swimming, leave the lid off for a while.

4 For the dumplings, simply mix all the ingredients together to form a sticky dough, then, with floured hands, roll into 8 balls. When the stew is ready, increase the heat to 200C/ Fan 180C/Gas 6. Sit the dumplings on the surface of the stew, then pop the lid on and return to the oven for a further 25 mins. Serve immediately

This recipe was just one of the ideas from our regular feature, Veg Patch Pantry, in which Kathy Slack (@gluts_gluttony)shows us how to use veg from your garden to make kithen table dishes. This month, she also has recipes for Green Noodle Broth, Chard & Cheese Lasagne and Puy Lentils with Cumin Roast Parsnips & Cauliflower.

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Recipe: January dauphinoise

From Mark Diacono’s plot in Devon this month, a recipe to make the most of his favourite blissfully bitter root veg - celeriac

“I’ll eat dauphinoise at any time of year, but this potato/celeriac split in the heart of winter’s cold is probably my favourite. Serve with griddled chicory or sprouting broccoli.”

January dauphinoise

Serves 6
25g unsalted butter, softened 
300g waxy potatoes
300g celeriac
300ml double cream
4 bay leaves
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 Preheat oven to 170C/Fan 150C/325F. Rub a gratin dish liberally with butter.

2 Peel the potatoes and celeriac and slice thinly, either with a sharp knife or a mandoline, submerging the celeriac slices in water with a little lemon juice to prevent them discolouring.

3 Whisk together the cream and garlic and season well. Toss the veg in the mixture and layer them in alternate layers in the gratin dish with the bay leaves, then pour over any remaining cream.

4 Bake for 75 mins, pressing down all over with a fish slice or spatula every 20 mins or so, to stop the spuds from drying out. It is ready when the top is bubbling and golden, and the vegetables soft and yielding when pierced with a knife.

Recipe and photograph by Mark Diacono, a green-fingered foodie who grows, cooks and eats the best of the familiar, forgotten and climate-change foods on his Devon smallholding. His book A Year at Otter Farm (Bloomsbury, £25) has inspiring recipes for every season. His latest book is Spice: A Cook’s Companion (Quadrille, £25). This blog was first published in January 2015.

Cabbage: a prince among brassica

Greens that are more than just good for you

Beloved of Crackerjack fans and often associated with, at best, peasant stews and, at worst, crash diets with dubious side-effects, cabbage might not strike you as a vegetable with much spark.

But you would be wrong. Cabbage has a long association with magic and mystery. As well as being really incredibly good for us, cabbage has some intriguing healing properties, too.

Apparently Cato himself advised eating cabbage soaked in vinegar ahead of an evening of heavy drinking: “If you wish, at a dinner party, to drink a good deal and to dine freely, before the feast eat as much raw cabbage and vinegar as you wish, and likewise, after you have feasted, eat about five leaves,” he advised. “It will make you as if you had eaten nothing and you shall drink as much as you please.” Sounds like a more risky enterprise than a dose of milk thistle and a Berocca the morning after but if it’s good enough for Roman statesmen it’s good enough for us.

Caesar’s armies allegedly carried cabbage with them on the march to dress wounds. We imagine it doesn’t have the stick of an Elastoplast but it’s much more manly, somehow.

And indeed modern studies bear out this theory with cabbages being shown to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Large savoy cabbage leaves have been used by many a breastfeeding mother to ease the symptoms of engorgement, by placing them in the cup of a brassiere. It’s said the effects are strengthened by putting the leaves in the fridge first, though Caesar never confirmed that to our knowledge.

If that hasn’t convinced you that cabbage is the king of the veg patch, we urge you to read Lia Leendertz’s feature on cabbage in our January issue: Today, Tomorrow, To Keep, in which she shares cabbage recipes for today’s supper, something to look forward to tomorrow and another idea for a cabbagey treat to put away. We’ve tried the sauerkraut and can confirm it is a game changer. The issue is in the shops now.

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